Finding the Perfect Bokeh | Hasselblad X & Fujifilm G Lenses
Shot with Hassalbelad X2D II 100C + XCD 90V Lens
Anyone can be a photographer at Capture Integration
Normally, an article from Capture Integration involving “lens testing” would be written by our technical expert, Brad Kaye, or one of our knowledgeable salesmen, like Steve Hendrix or Dave Gallagher. However, one of the perks of working here is free access to any of the gear in the office, whether you’re job title includes photographic skills or not. I’m the marketing manager at CI, so needless to say, I’m not here to reveal some revolutionary technical insight. I’m writing this article because I want to step up my game on the visuals I create for my job. To do that, I need to stop taking pictures on my iPhone!
It saves me time and hassle, but alas, I cannot get on board with those who say our smartphones are just as good as a traditional camera (and not because my job depends on it). Perhaps my eyes are spoiled, as so many of our clients make beautiful work. These days, when I open my iPhone camera roll, it just looks like disappointment…
There’s a sentiment here, I think, any aspiring photographer can relate to—a desire to create quality work with more intention and better tools. We all have to start somewhere.
It’s just not the same
Trying to take a photo on my iPhone, getting frustrated, and retaking them all on the Hasselblad X2D.
Finding my go-to system
I’ve come to terms with the fact that, in most situations, I’m better off reaching for a camera than my iPhone. My next step is to figure out my go-to system. I need a camera lens combination ideal for shooting gear “portraits.” Something that I can pick up at a moment’s notice, boasts the professional quality of the products we sell, and isn’t rocket science to get a beautiful image. My two contenders are the Fujifilm GFX and the Hasselblad X2D system.
Show me the bokeh
Finally, the title of the article becomes relevant.
I would argue that what’s out of focus in a portrait is arguably just as important as what’s in focus. There are plenty of factors that go into a good portrait lens, but the main thing I’m looking for is the “perfect bokeh.” My first thought was to set up a scene and take the same picture with a variety of lenses at their widest aperture. But who says the biggest bokeh is the best bokeh? There’s far more opportunity for comparison if I have a range of apertures, so I decided to shoot from wide open to f/5.6.
Images with the Fujifilm GF Line
Fujifilm GF80mm Lens @ Apertures f/1.7 – f/5.6
Fujifilm GF110mm Lens @ Apertures f/2.0 – f/5.6
Fujifilm GF120mm Lens @ Apertures f/4.0 – f/5.6
While recreating this image from lens to lens, I had a sinking feeling that the only meaningful comparison to make would be from Fujifilm to Hasselblad. Most photographers know that longer focal lengths compress your subject and background, and wider apertures equal shallower depth of field. What more is there to gain from looking at these images shot at different focal lengths?
As a visual learner and creator, I believe there are qualities that cannot be fully explained by words. I encourage you to enlarge the images and look at them side by side to make your own observations.
Comparing GF Lenses at Wide Open
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Comparing GF Lenses at f/5.6
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Images with the Hasselblad X Line
For the Hasselblad X line, I chose to shoot the 90V XCD, 55V XCD, and 35-100 E XCD. The XCD 80mm would have been a better choice to compare to the GF80mm, but it’s so dang heavy that I’ll always prefer the 90V. The 55V and 35-100 E were chosen to compare the zoom and prime at the same focal length.
Hasselblad 90V XCD Lens @ Apertures f/2.5 – f/5.6
Hasselblad 55V XCD Lens @ Apertures f/2.5 – f/5.6
Hasselblad 35-100 E XCD Lens @ Apertures f/3.2 – f/5.6
Comparing Zoom to Prime @ 90mm Wide Open
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Comparing Zoom to Prime @ 90mm f/5.6
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Comparing Zoom to Prime @ 55mm
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Comparing Fujifilm to Hasselblad
As mentioned before, I encourage readers to download these images and compare themselves. Both cameras were set to auto white balance (perhaps an uncontrolled variable in retrospect). I did not adjust color or add filters to the test images. Only small corrections to ensure the images’ exposure levels look similar across the board.
Below are the images I felt most compelled to visually compare.
Comparing at f/2.5 – Fujifilm GF80 vs. Hasselblad 90V
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Comparing at f/5.6 – Fujifilm GF80 vs. Hasselblad 90V
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What Do I Want to Shoot With
Returning to the original purpose of my article, looking for my go-to system. As expected, the deciding factors go far beyond what gives me the biggest & baddest bokeh. Here is what im choosing and why.
The Hasselblad X2D Camera & 90V XCD Lens
If I want a quick and beautiful image, I’m grabbing the Hasselblad. Most likely with the 90V, but realistically, any of the newer X lenses 55mm and above. I realized while writing this that I’d need a picture of the winning system. I was almost tempted to take it on my iPhone (NO!). But grabbing the X2D is almost just as easy. Here’s why…
Hasselblad color (HNCS)
For me, one of the most pleasing things about shooting the Hasselblad was the color and tonal reproduction of the untouched file. Colors are rich without oversaturation. Highlights shine without being blown out. Tonal gradations are smooth and pleasing. It’s beautiful with little to no help. Even the preview on the back of the camera looks good, and it gives you a boost to know you have a few winners to work with later.
< untouched raw of the winning system image
Internal storage
I can’t explain why popping an SD card in the camera is an extra barrier, but it is. I pick up the camera, snap a few shots, and plug it straight into my computer. I can’t forget the card at home, or lug the camera out to a destination and realize I left my card on my desk. One less thing to worry about.
Natural vignetting
This is a bit subjective, but I prefer the more dramatic light fall-off at the edges of the prime X system lenses.
So, is shallow depth of field a factor?
While the string light bokeh looks magical, I realized during this test that a shallow depth of field isn’t always the right choice for my application. For example, in the screengrabs above, the ALPA logo is completely illegible when focusing on the lens cap at f/1.7. While most of our clientele can recognize an ALPA body without the logo, it’s an important consideration. Many cameras, like this ALPA body, have intricate pieces and details, markings for measurement, etc. If I needed a single image where they were all in focus enough to reference, I’d want to stop down my aperture. Since I’m using a tripod and shooting objects that don’t move, I can do this without raising my ISO by extending my shutter speed.
Close-up of a tree in the background.
Stopping down will mean more of my image is in focus. In the office, I am surrounded by long alleyways and parking lots. They have a lot of character, but they are distracting and cluttered as a background. I do think f/5.6 is sufficient to draw the focus back to my subject, which is an f-stop available on almost any lens.
This isn’t to say I’m ruling out faster lenses: I can stop down on any lens. But I don’t need to choose a lens with a wide aperture like f/1.7, as I likely won’t shoot with an aperture that large.
In conclusion
I’m no professional photographer, but I’m happy shooting both the Fujifilm and Hasselblad systems. I’ve shot with lower-end Nikon cameras all my life, and every medium format system we have available at Capture Integration has produced a file beyond my expectations. If you’re interested in speaking to people who have these cameras in hand every day, testing and learning, give us a call.
For More From CI
Steve Hendrix – 404.543.8475 – Steve@captureintegration.com
Chris Snipes – 813.335.2473 – Chris@captureintegration.com
Dave Gallagher – 770.846.5223 – Dave@captureintegration.com
Murray Elliott – 631.935.3389 – Murray@captureintegration.com
Greg King – 303-728-4517 – Greg@captureintegration.com
Office – 404.522.7662 – Info@captureintegration.com
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